Braised Veal Breast with Mushrooms - mushrooms

Method

• Reconstitute the mushrooms by covering them with very hot water.
• Turn the heat under a 12-inch skillet to medium-high and let the pan sit for a minute.
• Add the veal and brown it on both sides, turning once, for a total of about 6 minutes.
• Transfer the meat to a plate and turn the heat to medium.
• Add the mushrooms and about 1/2 cup of their liquid (strained, if necessary, to remove sediment) along with the wine.
• Bring to a boil and cook for about 30 seconds, then return the veal to the skillet.
• Season with salt and pepper, turn the heat to low, and cover.
• Cook for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, turning once or twice during that period and checking now and then to make sure the liquid is bubbling slowly; adjust the heat accordingly.
• When the meat is tender, transfer it to a cutting board.
• Turn the heat under the liquid in the skillet to high and reduce it to a thick, saucy consistency.
• Stir in the butter if you like and keep it warm.
• Carve the meat against the grain into 1/4-inch-thick slices and serve with the sauce.
• Braised Veal Breast with Fresh Mushrooms: Though I find that cooking the veal breast with dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms yields the best results and deepest flavor, you can prepare the dish with fresh mushrooms: Start with at least 1/2 pound fresh mushrooms, button or other.
• Slice them, then cook them over medium-high heat in 2 tablespoons olive oil or butter, preferably with a couple of crushed peeled garlic cloves and a few fresh thyme sprigs, until tender, about 15 minutes.
• Proceed as directed, adding 1/2 cup water, wine, or stock in place of the mushroom cooking liquid.
• Veal Brisket with Bacon and Onion: One of my favorite variations takes its cue from a classic coq au vin.
• Start by rendering about 1/4 pound cubed bacon, preferably cut from a slab, over medium heat, stirring, until crisp.
• Then remove the bacon pieces with a slotted spoon.
• Brown the veal in the fat as directed.
• Remove the veal and cook 1 1/2 cups chopped onion (or about 15 pearl onions) in the fat over medium heat until nicely browned.
• Proceed as directed, beginning by adding the mushrooms and their liquid and using red wine in place of the white wine.
• For any of these renditions, consider stirring in up to 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) of butter, a bit at a time, at the end of cooking to give the sauce a richness and suavity like youd encounter in the best restaurants.
• (Trust me: thats how they make everything taste so good.)