Ingredients

  • 4 cups Basic Chicken Stock (page 27) or water
  • 1/2 large yellow Spanish onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
  • 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 cup carnaroli or arborio rice
  • 1 cup dry white wine
  • 1/2 cup ragu bolognese (see Garganelli with Ragu Bolognese, page 189)
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/2 cup small-diced fontina (about 3 ounces)
  • 1/2 cup small-diced low-moisture mozzarella (about 3 ounces)
  • 1 cup Passata di Pomodoro (page 25) or tomato sauce
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 4 extra-large eggs
  • 2 cups finely ground unseasoned bread crumbs (from about 10 ounces of crustless bread)
  • Grapeseed oil or another neutral-flavored oil, such as canola oil, for frying
  • Kosher salt
  • Wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano, for grating

Method

  • To make the risotto, bring the stock to a boil in a medium pot.
  • Reduce the heat to low to barely keep the stock warm.
  • Combine the onion, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt in a risotto pot or large saucepan over medium-high heat and saute until the onion is tender and translucent, about 10 minutes.
  • Add the water and continue to cook the onion, stirring frequently and taking care not to let it brown, until the water has evaporated and the onion looks oily again, about 3 minutes.
  • Stir in the rice, drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil, and toast the rice for 4 minutes, stirring frequently, until it starts to make a light crackling sound.
  • Here is where the famous risotto process of stirring constantly begins.
  • Add the wine, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring frequently, until the pan is dry and the rice begins to stick to the pot; you will hear the rice faintly begin to crackle in the pan.
  • Ladle in 1/2 cup of the stock, or enough to just cover the rice, and 1/2 teaspoon more of the salt.
  • Cook the rice, stirring constantly and wiping down the sides of the pan with a spatula, until the pan is once again dry and the rice again begins to stick to it, about 3 minutes.
  • Add 1/4 cup more stock and cook the rice for 5 minutes, adding 1/4 cup more stock whenever the liquid gets below the level of the rice.
  • Stir in the bolognese and cook the rice with the bolognese for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly and adding 1/2 cup more stock when the pan is dry, until the rice is al dente.
  • Turn off the heat, add the butter and the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and stir vigorously with a risotto spoon or a wooden spoon for about 2 minutes to emulsify the risotto.
  • (This is probably the most important detail of all the details to making risotto.
  • Here the rice is releasing its starches, leaving it suspended in its rich and creamy liquid.)
  • Stir in the Parmigiano- Reggiano and set the risotto aside to cool to room temperature.
  • When the risotto is cool, gently fold in the fontina and mozzarella.
  • Transfer the risotto to a tightly covered container and place it in the refrigerator to chill for at least 1 hour and up to overnight.
  • Using a spoon, scoop up 3/4 ounce (about 1 tablespoon) of the risotto, and gently compress it by cupping it tightly in your fingers, then roll it into a ball.
  • Fry the arancine immediately or cover in plastic and refrigerate until you are ready to fry them or for up to one day.
  • To fry and serve the arancine, heat the passata in a medium saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking to the pan while you fry the arancine.
  • Pour the flour into a medium bowl or pie pan.
  • Whisk the eggs into a separate medium bowl and pour the bread crumbs into a third medium bowl or another pie pan.
  • Dredge a rice ball into the flour, making sure to coat it all over.
  • Shake off the excess flour and place the ball into the egg mixture, making sure it is completely covered in egg.
  • Lastly, put the ball in the bread crumbs to coat evenly.
  • Place the prepared arancine on a baking sheet and repeat with the remaining balls.
  • Fasten a deep-fry thermometer to the side of a medium saucepan and fill the saucepan 3 to 4 inches deep with the oil.
  • Heat the oil over medium-high heat until the thermometer registers 350F.
  • While the oil is heating, line a baking sheet with paper towels.
  • Working in batches and taking care not to crowd the pan, carefully drop the arancine into the oil in a single layer and fry until they are golden brown, turning them so they brown evenly, 3 to 4 minutes.
  • Use a slotted spoon or tongs to remove the balls from the oil and transfer them to the paper towels to drain.
  • Season them with salt immediately.
  • Add more oil to the pan if it has dropped below 3 inches deep and wait for the oil to heat to 350F before frying the remaining batches of arancine in the same way.
  • Spoon the passata in a thin layer on individual dishes or on a large serving dish.
  • Place the arancine on top of the passata, use a microplane or another fine grater to grate Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top, and serve.
  • Sangiovese di Romagna (Emilia-Romagna)