Ingredients

  • 1 cup shelled fresh or thawed frozen green peas
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 cup steel-cut oats (not old-fashioned or quick-cooking oatmeal)
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large shallot, minced
  • 1 large garlic clove, minced
  • 1 small yellow squash, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced
  • 1 small zucchini, quartered lengthwise and thinly sliced
  • 1 1/2 cups grape tomatoes, halved
  • 8 partially boned quail, rinsed and patted dry
  • 1/4 pound chanterelle mushrooms, thinly sliced
  • 2 thyme sprigs

Method

  • If using fresh peas, blanch them in a medium saucepan of boiling water until tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes; drain.
  • In a blender, puree half of the blanched or thawed frozen peas with 2 tablespoons of water until smooth.
  • Season the green pea puree with salt and pepper.
  • Rinse out the saucepan.
  • Add 2 1/2 cups of salted water and bring to a boil.
  • Add the oats and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until al dente, about 25 minutes.
  • Stir in the pea puree, butter and the remaining whole peas and season with salt and pepper.
  • Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until shimmering.
  • Add the shallot and garlic and cook over moderately high heat until softened, about 1 minute.
  • Add the yellow squash and zucchini and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, just until tender, 6 to 7 minutes.
  • Add the grape tomatoes and cook for 3 minutes, crushing them lightly.
  • Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.
  • Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in each of 2 large skillets until shimmering.
  • Season the quail with salt and pepper and add 4 to each skillet, breast side down.
  • Cook over moderately high heat until crisp, about 3 minutes.
  • Turn and cook for 1 minute longer.
  • Transfer all the quail to 1 skillet, breast side up, and continue cooking for 2 minutes longer, until cooked through and the skin is very crisp.
  • Meanwhile, heat the second skillet until almost smoking.
  • Add the chanterelles and thyme sprigs and cook over high heat, tossing, until the mushrooms are browned, about 5 minutes; discard the thyme sprigs.
  • Rewarm the sweet pea oatmeal and mound on 4 large plates.
  • Arrange the vegetable ragout and the chanterelles around the oatmeal and top each serving with 2 quail.
  • Serve right away.