Ingredients

  • 10 dried mild New Mexico chiles (2 1/2 to 3 oz)
  • 5 cups water
  • 3 1/4 lb boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
  • 3 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped (2 cups)
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano, crumbled
  • 3 tablespoons finely chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo
  • 3/4 cup masa harina (corn tortilla mix)
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 cup chilled lard or unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 3/4 cup well-shaken buttermilk
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Method

  • Simmer dried chiles in 2 cups water, covered, in a 2-quart heavy saucepan until very soft, about 20 minutes. Reserve 3/4 cup cooking liquid, then drain in a colander. Stem chiles (do not remove seeds), then puree in a blender with reserved cooking liquid until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids). Force puree through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Reserve puree.
  • Pat lamb dry, then sprinkle with pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Heat 2 tablespoons lard in a 6-quart wide heavy pot or a 3-inch-deep straight-sided skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown lamb in 4 batches (without crowding), turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a bowl.
  • Add remaining tablespoon lard to pot, then cook onion, garlic, bay leaves, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add cumin and oregano and cook, stirring frequently, 1 minute. Stir in reserved chile puree and chipotles and simmer, stirring frequently and scraping up brown bits from bottom of pot, 5 minutes. Add lamb along with any juices accumulated in bowl and remaining 3 cups water, then bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until lamb is tender, about 2 1/2 hours.
  • Stir together masa harina, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Blend in lard pieces with a pastry blender or your fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add buttermilk, stirring just until dough is moistened (do not overmix).
  • Skim fat off chili and discard bay leaves, then drop 8 or 9 heaping tablespoons of dough onto simmering chili, about 2 inches apart. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer, covered, until tops of dumplings are dry to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes. Sprinkle with cilantro.