Ingredients

  • 3 pounds ripe tomatoes (round, plum, or cherry varieties are all fine)
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 plump garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary (a short branch with lots of leaves)
  • 1/4 teaspoon peperoncino flakes, or to taste
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
  • 1 batch (1 1/2 pounds) Homemade Tagliatelle (page 136)
  • 1/2 cup or so freshly grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for the table
  • 2 tablespoons or so extra-virgin olive oil for finishing
  • A heavy-bottomed skillet or saute pan, 12-inch diameter or larger

Method

  • For the sauce: Core the tomatoes, and cut them in half.
  • With round or plum tomatoes, squeeze out seeds into a sieve placed over a bowlsave the juices and discard the seedsthen chop the tomatoes into 3/4-inch pieces.
  • Cherry tomatoes need only be cut in half.
  • Pour the olive oil into the big skillet, and set it over medium-high heat.
  • Scatter the garlic slices in the pan, and heat for a minute or so, until they start sizzling.
  • Toss in the rosemary sprig and peperoncino, let them heat for a few moments, then drop the tomato paste into a clear hot spot in the pan bottom.
  • Toast the tomato paste for a minute, then pour in the chopped tomatoes, sprinkle on the salt, and stir all together.
  • Cook the tomatoes for a couple of minutes, until they begin to release their liquid.
  • Pour in the reserved tomato juices from the bowl, along with 1/2 cup or so of water (use it to slosh out the tomato bowl).
  • Bring the sauce to a boil, then adjust heat to keep it perking steadily.
  • Cook, uncovered, until tomatoes break down into a chunky sauce, about 10 to 12 minutes.
  • When the sauce is done, stir in the parsley and turn off the heat (or keep it barely simmering if you are ready to cook the pasta).
  • To cook the tagliatelle: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil.
  • Shake the nests of tagliatelle in a colander or strainer to remove excess flour.
  • Drop all the pasta into the pot at once, and stir to loosen and separate the strands.
  • Cover the pot, and return the water to a boil rapidly.
  • Set the cover ajar, and cook the pasta, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes or more, until barely al dente (it will cook a bit more in the sauce).
  • Have the tomato sauce at a simmer; if it has cooled and thickened, loosen it with a bit of the hot pasta-cooking water.
  • Lift the tagliatelle from the cooking pot quickly, with a spider and tongs, drain briefly, and drop into the simmering ragu.
  • Toss together, over low heat, for a minute or more, until all the strands are coated and perfectly cooked.
  • Thin the sauce, if necessary, with hot pasta water, or thicken it quickly over higher heat.
  • Turn off the heat, sprinkle 1/2 cup or so of grated cheese over the tagliatelle, and toss well.
  • Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over, and toss again.
  • Heap the pasta in warm bowls, and serve immediately, passing more cheese at the table.