Braised Veal Shanks - veal

Method

• Stand the shank pieces up on a flat end.
• Cut six lengths of twine, each about 2 feet long, and wrap one around the outside of each ossobuco, in the middle (the meat will look as though its wearing a very tight belt).
• Tie the twine securely and trim the ends.
• Cut a small square of cheesecloth and wrap up the bay leaves, cloves, rosemary sprig, and juniper berries.
• Tie the packet with twine.
• Shave off the peel of the orange and lemon in broad strips with a paring knife or vegetable peelerremove only the colorful zest, not the bitter white pith.
• Squeeze and strain the juice from the orange.
• Just before browning the meat, salt the ossobuco lightly, using 1/2 teaspoon in all.
• Dredge the shanks in the flour to coat all surfaces.
• Pour the vegetable oil into the pan, and set over medium-high heat.
• Shake off excess flour, and set all the ossobuco in the oil, standing on a cut end.
• Let them sizzle for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottoms are well browned; turn to caramelize the other cut side.
• Flip the pieces onto their round edges, and rotate so the fat crisps all around the shanks.
• Remove them to a platter when nicely coloredthis will take 10 minutes or more.
• When all the ossobuco are browned, carefully pour the hot vegetable oil out of the empty pan, leaving the crusted bits of meat on the bottom.
• Pour in the olive oil, set over medium-high heat, and dump in the onions.
• Stir them around for a minute or two, scraping the pan to release the caramelized bits, then stir in the carrot and celery.
• Drop in the cheesecloth herb sachet, sprinkle on a teaspoon of salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are sizzling and wilting.
• Clear a space in the pan bottom, and drop in the tomato paste; cook the paste in the hot spot for a minute, then stir it into the vegetables.
• Add the crushed tomatoes, stir well, and bring to a boil.
• Raise the heat to high, pour in the wine, and cook for a couple of minutes at a boil to evaporate the alcohol.
• Pour in the orange juice and about 6 cups of the hot stock; drop in all the strips of citrus zest and the remaining salt, and bring the liquids to a boil.
• Return the ossobuco to the saucepan, standing them on end so theyre evenly immersed in the sauce.
• Add more hot stock, if necessary, just to cover the tops of the ossobuco with liquid.
• Cover the pan, and lower the heat so the sauce is perking steadily but not too fast.
• Cook for an hour or so, covered, checking that the sauce has not reduced and is still covering the meat (add stock if needed).
• Turn the ossobuco over in the pan so the meat cooks evenly.
• Uncover the pan, and cook for another hour or more at a bubbling simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain slow but steady concentration of the sauce.
• As the braising-liquid level gradually drops, carefully turn the shanks again, so no parts dry out.
• Cook for 2 to 3 hours in all, until the meat at its thickest part is tender enough to pierce with a fork with only slight resistance, and the sauce is thick, reduced well below the tops of the shank pieces.
• Season with fresh pepper to taste and stir.
• Turn off the heat.
• Lift each ossobuco from the cooking pot with sturdy tongs, letting the sauce drain off, and place it on a large platter.
• Snip the knotted twine pieces with a scissors; pull off and discard.
• Lift out the cheesecloth sachet, press to release all the juices back into the pot, and discard.
• Set a wire-mesh sieve in a bowl or saucepan.
• Strain all the sauce through the sieve, pressing the liquid from the strips of peel and vegetable bits.
• The sauce should be thick and velvety, with the consistency of molasses (if it is too thin, quickly reduce it over high heat).
• Taste the sauce, and adjust the seasoning for the last time.
• Chop and stir together the chopped parsley, garlic, and lemon zest for the gremolata just before serving, for freshness.
• Spoon the Risotto alla Milanese (page 48) into the center of six wide plates, and nestle the ossobuco in the center of the risotto.
• Spoon over it some of the sauce, and sprinkle lightly with gremolata (about 1/2 teaspoon per serving).
• Serve with small spoons for scooping the delicious marrow from the bones, and pass the remaining gremolata at the table.